Vines & Vittles

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Watch WineBoy, Episode 12, John Brown’s weekly off-the-wall four-minute webcast at thegazz.com/gazzTV, and learn some traditional — and not so traditional — food and wine pairings. He’ll also recommend a really nice cabernet sauvignon. This week’s special guest from Brown’s Land of Id is cowboy oenophile Spud Dumplin, who shares “chuck wagon picks” for desert dining (does Shiraz go with fire-roasted Gila monster?).

Fall = Wine and Food Events

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Fall is upon us and with the cooler weather the number of indoor activities naturally increases. Consequently, there are a greater number of wine tastings, gourmet-wine dinners and other gastronomic events around our beautiful state. Whether you decide to stay close to home or travel, there are some nice events on the horizon for wine and food lovers in West Virginia. Check these out.

Bridgeport

Oct. 22: Provence Market’s October Wine Tasting
If you’re in the north-central WV area next week, you might stop by Provence Market Cafe for a tasting of some good Mountain State wine as Elaine and Alan Wolfe present their Jones Cabin Run Vineyards “Award Winning” selections on Monday, October 22. The tasting begins at 6 p.m.and costs $20 per person.

In case you didn’t know, Provence Market Café is an excellent restaurant with a Wine Spectator award winning wine list. You also might want to check out their annual Holiday Tasting which is scheduled for Monday, December 3rd. For further information on tastings or for dinner reservations call 304-848- 0911

Charleston

OCT. 22: Chefs with Golden Spoons Dinner
If you want to experience the best West Virginia’s culinary wizards have to offer, then consider attending the annual March of Dimes dinner and auction at Berry Hills Country Club on Monday Oct. 22, at 6:30 p.m. The dinner event will feature dishes donated by chefs from around the state, including those from Canaan Valley Resort, The Chop House, Edgewood and Berry Hills Country Clubs, Olgebay Resort, The Blossom, Snowshoe and several others. Attendees may bid for dinner packages in the chef’s restaurants, jewelry and weekend getaways. Tickets are $75 in advance and $100 at the door. Call 720-2229 for reservations. All proceeds from the event go to the March of Dimes.

NOV. 1: Science of Wine & Art of Food fundraiser

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WINEBOY 11: ‘When Wines Mature’

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Maturity is certainly not one of WineBoy’s personal attributes. But in episode 11 of John Brown’s weekly wine webshow with attitude — click here to watch — he’ll demonstrate the proper manner to evaluate and serve mature wines. Be sure to catch this latest webcast of Brown’s part educational, part zany weekly four-minute show featuring his unique approach to all things wine. You’ll want to pay particular attention to the advice of special guest and Wine Astrologist, the Marchrazi Umberto Lupini.

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Coppola’s “Director’s Cut” Zinfandel is a perfect companion to the grilled pork chop recipe below

With the arrival of fall, my thoughts turn to richer textured wines and fuller-flavored edibles, including all manner of grilled meat dishes that just seem to go so well with this time of year. But just as I began to plan a feast built around the above mentioned victuals, I visited my family doctor for an annual physical and a dose of reality.

Suffice it to say that his prescription for my continued well-being differs considerably from my own opinion of what is best for me. Hey, after all, I’m a devotee of Dr. Feelgood, whose idea of moderation includes being careful not to be so careful. Anyway, the dish I’m going to suggest to you today is really kind of healthy and it does include the liberal application of red wine (which we all know is important to cardiac health).

I’m a man of simple tastes, yet sometimes I am required to consume complex foods with deeply flavored and sometimes esoteric wines, then expected to render erudite opinions on the experience. For example, it’s not easy to explain why rack of antelope infused with lime, kiwi and a balsamic chipotle reduction goes so well with petit verdot grown on the south-facing slopes of Mt. Etna. This job can be challenging!

So when I cook for friends and family, the food is usually straightforward, down-home, meat and starch type meals with fairly inexpensive, no-nonsense wines that taste good and help de-clog the arteries (see, I’m really trying to be healthy). In fact, I am a great fan of thick-cut pork chops, grilled and served with a great big, full-throttle Zinfandel. But to do it right, you’ll need the best chops available and, for these, I count on the good folks from Sandy Creek Farms near Ravenswood.

You may have heard about Sandy Creek. They raise beef, pork and lamb on organic food-stocks with no antibiotics or other additives. They then butcher and flash freeze the cuts of meat which they deliver in and around the Charleston area. If you’re interested in having them deliver to you call: 800-487-2569. I regularly order pork chops from Sandy Creek. Why? Simply put, they are without a doubt the leanest and tastiest chops I’ve ever consumed. Here’s my recipe (which involves preparing a brine and glaze for the chops) along with a few wine suggestions to go with this delicious meal.

1. Start with one and one-half inch bone-in chops. For the brine, you‘ll need one-quart of apple cider and a container or gallon storage bag to accommodate the liquid and pork. To the apple cider add one-quarter cup each of kosher salt and brown sugar and let the mixture brine the pork for about four hours.

2. For the glaze, you’ll need to blend three heaping tablespoons of cherry or blackberry preserves, one-half teaspoon of chipotle powder (or two tablespoons of canned chipotle in adobo sauce) and one tablespoon of white vinegar in a sauce pan. Heat the glaze until it begins to boil and then remove it from the stove.

3. Extract the chops from the liquid and pat them dry. Next, prepare a charcoal fire or start your gas grill. If you have apple wood chips, run them under water for about 10 seconds just to get them wet. Place the chips on the fire, put the chops on the grill and close the grill cover.

4. With a very hot fire, you’ll need to turn the chops after about four minutes to prevent them from burning. The total cooking time should be no more than 15 minutes for the chops (which should be very slightly pink inside). Right before you remove the chops from the grill, baste them on both sides with the glaze and let them cook on both sides for about 30 seconds a side. When you remove them from the grill, baste them again on both sides and serve.

My favorite side dish with these glazed pork chops are baked grits with cheddar cheese to which you can add jalapeno peppers if you like.

WINE RECOMMENDATION:
Now, for the perfect wine accompaniments. Try the 2005 Coppola Director’s Cut Zinfandel ($15). Or you might also select the 2004 Renwood Old Vines Zin ($20) or the 2004 Marietta Old Vines Zinfandel ($18).

WineBoy 9: Hey, my wine’s too warm! And hers is too cold.

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You know what makes WineBoy mad, really mad? Watch the webcast of WineBoy 9 by clicking here as host John Brown discusses the proper serving temperature of wine while lamenting how few restaurants – even the fancy-shmancy ones- pay attention to this very important aspect of wine appreciation. He’ll also tell you about a very tasty Australian red with an Italian pedigree. Oh, and you’ll love his interview with Pierre N’Cest Pas, a Frenchman with some strong opinions about American wine.

A few sippers for your shopping cart

Over the past several months, I have had the pleasure of tasting a number of excellent wines for all things WineBoy, including this blog, the “WineBoy” webcast and the “Main Ingredient” column in the Sunday Gazette-Mail. You may have seen the reviews of a few of these wines in the Main Ingredient, but in case you haven’t, you might want to look for these lovelies at your favorite wine shop or grocery store. Enjoy.

groth2006.jpg2006 Groth from Napa Valley ($17): This beauty combines the herbal and grassy flavors one expects from sauvignon blanc with a richer texture and fuller feel that should pair exceptionally well with a pasta and asparagus dish with bits of pancetta or bacon.

2005 Montirius Côtes du Rhône ($11): The southern Rhône Valley of France is known for chewy, juicy wines that exhibit a smoky, peppery quality. The most famous wine of the region is Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but there are other, more affordable options from that storied region. The Montirius is a lovely Côtes du Rhône red which is a blend of grenache, mourvèdre and syrah. This is a delicious wine chock-full of peppery, dark fruit flavors with a touch of smoke for good measure. Domaine Montirius is also one of the first French wineries to adopt organic and biodynamic practices in both the vineyard and winery. Try it with smoked chicken or grilled hamburgers.

2006 Nobilo Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc ($11) from New Zealand: Frank Nobilo made his fortune as a PGA touring pro, but, in my opinion, his best stroke was the establishment of the winery bearing his name. One of my favorite value wines is his ’06 sauvignon blanc. This is a crisp, refreshing sipper with a touch of melon and citrus and would be a great accompaniment to poached salmon sauced with dill infused mayonnaise.

saladini_pregio_del_conte_rosso.jpg2003 Saladini Pilastri Pregio del Conte ($20): Pregio del Conte is a blend of Aglianico and Montepulciano. From the Marches region of Italy, this wine has concentrated sweet dark fruit flavors and is balanced by lively acidity. It would be an excellent choice with roasted sirloin of pork seasoned with garlic, kosher salt, coarsely ground black pepper and rosemary.

2006 Ballantine Chenin Blanc ($17): This remarkable estate-grown Napa Valley chenin blanc, produced from 25 year–old vines, is a myth-breaker. Why? Well, most chenin blanc, especially from the famous Loire Valley region of Vouvray, is finished slightly sweet, and is a lovely brunch or aperitif quaff. The ’06 Ballantine is an elegant, dry wine with citrus and mineral notes, a hint of toasty vanilla and a full-mouth feel. It is also crisp, balanced and would be a great match to a stir-fry of chicken, peanuts, onions and sweet red peppers with a touch of soy and a few drops of sesame oil..

cms_red.jpg2005 Hedges CMS Red ($14): This Washington State meritage blend of almost equal parts cabernet sauvignon and merlot with about 6% syrah is a delicious, balanced and complex wine that is an absolute bargain. Washington wines, particularly cabernet and merlot, can be the equal to and, in some vintages, even exceed the wines of California and Bordeaux. The 2005 vintage was excellent and this wine reflects that quality. With a rich, mouth-coating cola and black currant flavor, this well-balanced wine is drinkable now, but will benefit from a few more years in the bottle. Serve it with roasted fillet of beef in a Bordelaise sauce.

2005 White Knight Clarksburg Viognier ($17): Viognier does really well in almost arid conditions and in poorly drained soil. Sounds weird, I know. This Viognier was grown along the Sacramento River Delta near the town of Clarksburg (not WV). With floral aromas and apricot and peach flavors, the White Knight is a medium -bodied mouthful of wine. This wine is a very pleasing quaff and can be used as an aperitif or with lighter foods such as a cobb salad with a ranch-style dressing.

2005 Allegrini Valpolicella Classico ($17) –In the rolling hills of northeastern Italy just beyond Verona, the Allegrini family has been producing one of the best Valopolicella’s in that vine-rich nation. This wine is fruit-driven bottle with excellent cherry flavors and bright acidity to match nicely with lighter dishes such as an omelet or frittata made with eggs, provolone, onions, arugula and Italian sausage.

Why “ethereal” is out, “orgasmic” is in

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As much as I try not to, I sometimes slip into ‘winespeak’ in describing the hues, smells and tastes of a wine that — when the adjectives are stripped away — is either good, OK, or unpleasant. People often ask me why wine writers feel compelled to go to such great lengths and use such “flowery” terms to describe the sensory aspects of wine. My short answer is that wine has such multi-dimensional qualities that it is limiting and not very helpful to use basic terms to describe it. (And besides, most wine writers get paid by the word).

This all came to mind the other day as I was trying to describe the attributes of a particularly good red wine (from the state of Apulia in Italy) known as Salice Salentino. The stuff was so pleasing to me that I was having difficulty describing it without becoming overly exuberant. However, I think there is a difference between using what I will call traditional language to describe wine versus using non-traditional terms. For example, if I describe a riesling as having ripe apple flavors, you will immediately use your own memory of the taste, smell and texture of ripe apples to understand how the wine might actually taste.

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WineBoy7: Some air with that wine of yours?

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Show 7 of WineBoy, the informative, off-the-wall wine appreciation show of The Charleston Gazette is now online, featuring new show sponsor Blues BBQ Restaurant, right across from the Clay Center. Host John Brown takes on the question of the day: Why is it a good thing to air our your red wine?

Is it Real or is it Really Vito’s Thunder Mountain Chablis?

jefferson.jpgNew Yorker Magazine’s Patrick Radden Keefe in his “Reporter at Large” column recently explored the rarified world of collecting ancient bottles of wine (read article here). Specifically, Radden focused on bottles purchased at auction by multi-millionaire Bill Koch which were purported to be from Thomas Jefferson’s private collection and dated from the late 1700s. The column reads like a mystery novel and attempts to shed some light on the murky and imprecise science of verifying the true age of older wines, some of which are purchased at auction for hundreds of thousands of dollars. In this particular case, Mr. Koch goes to great lengths to prove (or disprove) the age of the wines he supposedly purchased from Jefferson’s stash.

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WineBoy6: ‘Getting the Dish on Bridge Road Bistro’

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In episode 6 of “WineBoy,” host John Brown heads ups to Robert Wong’s Bridge Road Bistro for a tasty pairing of wine and food. Executive chef Paco Aceves shares with Brown a chicken penne pasta dish from the Bistro’s recently revised menu. Brown pairs it with a French red wine from a new wine list by general manager Amy Sue Gates. You’ll be hungry before it’s all over. And wait for those credits to roll…