Vines & Vittles

Feastivall: Wine vs. Beer

After a two-year pandemic-induced hiatus, Feastivall, that hedonistic gala that features a wine vs beer throwdown, will once again welcome a packed house of hungry and thirsty gourmands to Berry Hills Country Club on Saturday, February18.

Feastivall, of course, is a fundraiser supporting Festivall – the multi-week entertainment event that brings a plethora of talented musical artists to the greater Charleston area each summer. It’s always gratifying to observe the positive effect our contributions make to the community in which we live. But Feastivall is also a good old fashion beverage rumble pitting wine versus beer in a five-course gourmet meal. And attendees will have the opportunity to vote on the best accompaniment (wine or beer) for each course prepared by local guest chefs.

The event will begin at 6 p.m. with a wine and beer aperitif bar where guests can sip, mingle and bid on items at the silent auction, including works of art, as well as restaurant packages, travel opportunities, and other gifts. The evening will also feature musical performances by local artists. If you’re interested in attending, cost is $125 a person. However, the event always sells out quickly so you might want to sign up right away. Get your tickets by going to: http://festivallcharleston.com/ or by calling 304-470-0489.

 

Guests will enjoy five courses, each paired with a craft beer selected by (misguided) beer geeks Charles Bockway and Erin McCoy. Of course, yours truly, assisted by Amanda Karpeuk of Mountain State Beverage, selected the wines which come from Germany, Spain, California, Washington State and Italy. I’m sure our opponents for Feastivall will soon reveal their frosty pairings for the dinner, but I can’t imagine that lesser liquid (beer) will be able to compete with the most food-friendly beverage (wine) man has ever produced.

 

Here is the menu with wine pairing selections along with the guest chef who is responsible for preparing each course.

 

Shrimp & Grit Cake
Manchego cheese, cilantro infused DiTrapano olive oil, candied bacon and micro greens – Chef Ke, Caterer and owner of the Chef Ke Experience
2020 Bastgen Riesling (Germany)

Seared Ahi Tuna
Togarashi crusted tuna, wasabi miso drizzle mixed greens, pickled shallots and marinated veggies – Chef Brian Magliochette, private chef at CB Culinary Services
Segura Viudas Brut Reserva NV (Spain)

Roasted Butternut Squash Bisque
Candied pecans, Calabrian chili-infused DiTrapano olive oil – Chef Chase Collier, Ristorante Abruzzi
2021 Frank Family Chardonnay (California)

Appalachian Abattoir Short Rib
Smoked farmhouse cheese grits, winter vegetables, tomato demi-glace, Villa DiTrapano olive oil chimichurri – Chef Paul Smith, 1010 Bridge Restaurant
2018 Chateau Ste. Michelle Indian Wells Merlot (Washington)

Pistachio Baked Alaska
Pistachio cake topper with blood orange & olive oil ice cream with fudge tines and caramelized meringues – Chef Anthony Bower, Berry Hills Country Club
2021 Michele Chiarlo Nivole Moscato d’Asti (Italy)

John Brown is also a novelist. His latest book Augie’s World, is a sequel to his debut novel, Augie’s War. Both novels are available in print and audio at Amazon. You can find out more about his novels and wine columns at wordsbyjohnbrown.com

Christmas: A few of my favorite things

As a card-carrying member of LOG (Laggards of America), I am fanatically dedicated to the practice of procrastination. I almost never do today what I can put off until… later.

Well, it’s later now, and with Christmas only a week away, I’m motivated to find gifts for the people who have patiently tolerated my imperfections for the past twelve months. And, of course, the gifts I will bestow on friends and family will be either wine or wine accoutrements (i.e., “stuff”). So, in the Spirit of the Season, you may joyfully read on for my fine wine -and wine-related – suggestions you might consider gifting to those special people in your life.

I’ll start with some non-liquid gift ideas that should enhance the enjoyment and appreciation of wine.

Wine Books:  The Oxford Companion to Wine ($36) by Janice Robinson and The World Atlas of  Wine  ($37) by Janice Robinson and Hugh Johnson are the two most comprehensive compendiums of wine information you will ever read. They are the ultimate reference guides to anything to do with the liquid we all love. You can find them at local bookstores or online at Amazon.

Wine Stemware: The aesthetics of sipping wine in crystal is oftentimes a very expensive proposition, but it’s nice to occasionally break out (probably not the best choice of words) the special stemware for that celebratory event. Riedel, Schott Zweise and Spiegelau are probably the best options for fine crystal. You can find them at wine shops, department stores and online. I recently purchased Riedel Veritas Wine Glasses (a set of four tasting glasses) at Amazon ($159). These glasses are dishwasher safe, and you can select from several styles and shapes.

Wine Decanter: I truly believe that using a crystal decanter to aerate wine not only improves the taste, but it also adds to the aesthetic enjoyment of your bottle. I’m convinced that young red wines, in particular, will always benefit from aeration. The idea is to decant the wine into a larger, more open, container to allow a generous amount of oxygen to aerate it. Decanters come in all shapes, sizes and prices, and they’re available in wine shops, departments stores and online.

Wine Aerator: When you don’t have the time to decant your wine, the Vinturi aerator is my go-to device for unlocking the true flavor of wine that’s been sitting inert in a bottle for months or even years. Pouring wine from the bottle through the Vinturi (which is essentially a small glass tube) into stemware has a similar effect to aerating wine in a decanter. You can find the Vinturi at your local wine shop or online for under
$40.

Wine Preservation Devices: I’ve used the Vacu Vin wine saver ($15) for decades to preserve the wine remaining (however infrequently) in opened bottles. It works by inserting a rubber stopper into the bottle top and pumping the air out. This creates a vacuum and keeps the wine fresh for another time. The Coravin Pivot (from $100) claims it preserves wine up to four weeks. The device uses argon gas to replace oxygen and preserve the wine. While I don’t own one, I’ve sipped wine using the Coravin process and it tastes fine. Many wine bars use Coravin or Coravin-like systems.

Okay, so let’s get to the wines. These vinous goodies are wines I would also be very pleased to receive as holiday gifts (are you reading this dear?)

White Wine: Grgich Hills Estate Chardonnay; Ramey Russian River Chardonnay; Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru; Veuve Cliquot Brut Champagne; Iron Horse Russian Cuvee (sparkling); Taittinger Comptes De Champagne Rose; Dolce Late Harvest Far Niente Napa Valley (375 ml); and Domaines Schlumberger Kessler Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace).

Red Wine: Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon; Domaine Serene Evenstad Pinot Noir; Il Poggione Brunello De Montalcino; Joseph Phelps Insignia; Alto Montayo Garnacha (Spain); Groth Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve; Chateau Lynch Bages; Chateau Brainaire Ducru; Chateau Cos d’Estournel; Saddleback Cabernet Sauvignon; Heitz Martha’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon; and Ornellaia (red blend from Italy).
Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to all!

John Brown is also a novelist. His latest book Augie’s World, is a sequel to his debut novel, Augie’s War. Both novels are available in print and audio at Amazon. You can find out more about his novels and wine columns at wordsbyjohnbrown.com

Thanksgiving Wines

I love Thanksgiving dinner! It is my favorite holiday meal of the year because it’s a wine lover’s dream come true. The versatility of preparation methods for turkey, along with the various delectable courses and side dishes in the meal, present a culinary extravaganza where there are almost limitless wine pairing opportunities.

The reason is the “National Bird” is blessed with meat that has different flavors, colors and textures which pair seamlessly with a variety of medium to full-bodied white or red wines. Add to this the way the bird is cooked – from traditional oven baking to deep frying, to grilling, to smoking -and you have even more wine choices from which to select.

For the traditional oven baked turkey with an herb seasoned dressing, I suggest opening a light to medium bodied white wine such as a Spanish verdejo, California sauvignon blanc or a steely chardonnay like Chablis. For reds with this type of turkey preparation and dressing, try pairing the just released Beaujolais Nouveau from France, a Chianti Classico from Italy, or a Rioja from Spain. You might also be surprised to know that older reds, such as aged claret from Bordeaux, Brunello Di Montalcino from Tuscany, or cabernet sauvignon from Napa, go nicely as well. However, if you choose to smoke or charcoal grill the turkey, I suggest pairing this spicy, smoky meal with pinot noir from Oregon, zinfandel from California or an Amarone from Italy. And if you’re a white wine drinker, I’ve also successfully paired a full-flavored Alsatian riesling successfully with grilled turkey.
Here’s what I plan to do this year.

 

Turkey: I’ll brine a 15 -pound turkey overnight in a mixture of kosher salt, brown sugar, water, apple cider and beer, I’ll grill it over a covered charcoal grill for two hours. Then I’ll transfer the turkey to the oven and bake it at 325 degrees Fahrenheit for another hour and a half- or until the internal temperature reaches 165 degrees.

Check out this recipe for the perfect sauce to enhance the grilled turkey.

Cranberry /Chipotle Relish
Ingredients: Finely chop one can of cranberries; from a can of chipotles in adobo sauce, mince one of the chipotles; mince one clove of garlic and squeeze the juice of one-half lemon; one-half cup of brown sugar.

Preparation: combine cranberries, chipotle peppers, garlic, lemon juice, and brown sugar in a small pot. Bring to a boil over high heat and stir continually. Lower heat to simmer and cook for 15 minutes. Serve as a sauce for the turkey

Side dishes: Tex-Mex Cornbread Dressing: In a separate pan, I’ll sauté onions, garlic and chorizo, and then add a teaspoon each of ground cumin and chili powder, two small cans of green chilies, a can of corn, a can of chicken broth, a package of cheddar cheese and pan of crumbled cornbread. I’ll accompany the turkey and dressing with mashed potatoes, gravy, candied sweet potatoes, roasted green beans with red bell pepper and sauteed and seasoned cauliflower florets. To top off the meal, we’ll devour pumpkin pie with whipped cream for dessert.

To accompany this Thanksgiving feast, I plan on pairing several wines with the meal. To get everyone in a proper celebratory mood for this uniquely American holiday, I’ll open a bottle of 2019 Schramsberg Brut Rose Sparkling Wine ($50) from the Napa Valley. For the meal, I’ll open both white and red wines to accompany the grilled turkey and spicy Tex-Mex dressing. From Alsace in eastern France, I will uncork the 2019 Trimbach Riesling ($26). This rich white wine has flavors of apricot and honey with a slightly smoky aroma. I will also open (and decant for an hour) the 2019 Renwood Estate Ranch Zinfandel ($26). From Amador County in the Sierra foothills, this full-bodied and spicy purple monster should work quite well with the grilled turkey. And to put a vinous exclamation point on the meal, I’ll open one of my favorite dessert wines to accompany the pumpkin pie: 2019 Navarro Late Harvest Gewurztraminer (375 ml, $30) from the Anderson Valley in Mendocino County.

Here’s wishing you the Happiest of Thanksgivings!

John Brown is also a novelist. His latest book Augie’s World, is a sequel to his debut novel, Augie’s War. Both novels are available in print and audio at Amazon. You can find out more about his novels and wine columns at wordsbyjohnbrown.com

Pairing Hillbilly Chili with… wine?

Obsessed as I am with eating and drinking well, I make a conscious effort to not only pair wine with the food I consume, but also to match these pairings with the seasons of the year. You would think the occasional sideways glance in a full -length mirror would disabuse me of this obsessive tendency, but it does not. Right now, the daily recipes at Chez Brown are morphing from the warm weather, lighter-type meals of summer to the heartier fare of fall. So, the white and red wines I choose to pair with autumn meals are necessarily fuller bodied – kind of like me!

Soups and stews are among the most desirable transition foods to experience in autumn, and good, old American chili tops my list of fall culinary delights. While many folks prefer beer as the go-to beverage for chili, I’m going to suggest that you consider wine to accompany this spicy, vegetable and meat concoction, especially when you pair it with my own recipe below. As a matter of fact, chili is the reason I started writing about wine. Confused? Let me explain

Back in 1981, I won the state chili cookoff at Snowshoe and then represented West Virginia at the World Chili Championship in Los Angeles. I also convinced some friends to join my wife and I in LA where we all had a great time (from what I remember), but, not surprisingly, my chili didn’t win. Afterward, we rented a van and spent the next week touring the wine country of Napa and Sonoma where we tasted at some of the greatest wineries in California. When I returned to Charleston, I happened to mention to Daily Mail city editor (at the time) Sam Hindman that the paper should have someone write about wine and the nascent wine industry. Sam suggested that I do it, and the rest, as they say, is history.

In addition to the chili that I prepared at Hollywood Race Track that day, there were also awards for categories like unique costumes, best decorated booths and most clever skits. Our group decided to do a short skit entitled: Hillbilly Chili – The Real McCoy.” Based on the hit TV show of the time, “The Real McCoy’s,” I’m ashamed to admit we looked like moonshiners dressed in bib overalls and wearing pointy hats. We even blacked out our teeth to further solidify the stereotypical view all outsiders had about West Virginians. Mea Culpa!

So, what wines pair well with chili? I generally use medium to full-bodied reds such as zinfandel, Cotes du Rhone or Valpolicella. You might try these: Terra d’Oro Zinfandel; Saint Cosme Cotes du Rhone; and Allegrini Valpolicella Classico. I also recommend sparkling wines with chili because their refreshing and thirst -quenching qualities present a nice counterpoint to this spicy dish. Here are a few sparklers that work well: Segura Viudas Cava from Spain; Gruet Blanc De Blancs from New Mexico; and Saint-Hilaire from France. All the wines listed above are priced under $30 a bottle.

My recipe below does not include beans because they were not allowed to be used in the chili cookoff competitions. However, feel free to add them if you wish.

Hillbilly Chili (The Real McCoy)

Ingredients:

Two pounds bottom round beef roast cut into one-half inch quarters

One pound each coarsely ground hamburger (chuck) and pork

One onion, one jalapeno and one red bell pepper coarsely chopped

Two cloves of garlic minced

One can each tomato paste, chopped green chilies and beef bouillon

Three slices of thick cut bacon chopped

Two ounces of canola cooking oil

One tablespoon each kosher salt, ground black pepper, ground cumin and cayenne pepper

Two tablespoons of honey

Two tablespoons of chili powder

Two twelve-ounce cans of pilsner beer

One large cooking pot

Preparation

Sauté onions, garlic and peppers in canola oil and put in cooking pot

Season above ingredients with salt, pepper, cayenne, and cumin

Sauté bottom round, hamburger and pork, add chili powder, drain most fat and put in pot

Cook bacon, drain fat and add to pot

Add honey, beer, bouillon, tomato paste to pot and bring ingredients to boil

Lower heat and simmer chili, adjusting spices, for two hours or until meat is tender

John Brown is also a novelist. His latest book Augie’s World, is a sequel to his debut novel, Augie’s War. Both novels are available in print and audio  at Amazon. You can find out more about his novels and wine columns at wordsbyjohnbrown.com

 

Youth Movement needed in wine industry!

I came of age during a time when beer was… well… just beer. Oftentimes, the suds were chased with a shot glass full of cheap hootch. Heck, if you ever wanted something other than cold, yellow, pilsner in my neighborhood, you had to wait until Christmastime when a regional brewer produced something called “Old Frothingslosh.” One of the taglines in the commercials for Old Frothingslosh read: “A whale of an ale for the pale, stale, male.” Another one read: “A beer so light the foam is on the bottom.”

Aside from unconventional (and apocryphal) brews like Old Frothingslosh, beer remained predictable (and boring) in this country with most of the suds mass-produced by large industrial type breweries. That is, until the past couple of decades when enterprising beer lovers re-invented the business by creating a new category of products called craft brews.

Since then, craft breweries have sprung up in great numbers all over the US with more than 25 such businesses now operating in West Virginia. These new businesses have taken beer to a whole new level by qualitatively improving traditional brews like pilsners, stouts and ales, and by developing unique products using non-traditional ingredients such as fruits and herbs.

 

Okay, you’re probably thinking: why is this wineaux (that’s French for wino) spending so much time on beer? Well, I have confession to make, I actually like beer, especially the stuff being made by West Virginia craft breweries such as Stumptown Ales in Davis and Weathered Ground in Ghent. But, let me be clear, I do prefer the taste of wine over beer, particularly when it comes to pairing either beverage with food. However, I must give credit where credit is due. Simply stated, the wine industry is stagnant and seems content to appeal to those of us who are predominately long in the tooth.

Craft brewers, conversely, have captured the imagination and palates of people who, statistically, will be on this planet much longer than those of us to whom the wine industry, stubbornly, continues to market. I certainly hope that my intuition and subjective assessment of the situation is wrong, but I don’t see many young adults at the numerous wine events, such as tastings and dinners, that I attend on a regular basis. And that’s unfortunate because I’ve never witnessed a more extensive variety of good to great wine that’s now available in the marketplace – and at very reasonable prices.

I’m not sure what advice to give to those institutions charged with the long-term survival and growth of the wine industry except to suggest they somehow find a way of making the product less intimidating. A good place to start might be to improve the information on the wine bottle’s label. Instead of the usual mumbo-jumbo label info (most of which is written in a foreign language), wineries could provide food pairing suggestions, appropriate serving temperatures and/or ways to preserve leftover wine to enjoy another day.

If all else fails, maybe we can appeal to the younger generation by developing a wine version of Old Frothingslosh. We might call it “Old Bacchus Sauce “– a wine so heavy the sediment settles on top! But hey, brothers and sisters of the vine, you can be assured I’m not letting up on my evangelistic zeal for wine. As a matter of fact, here are two wines I’ve tasted recently that have pleased my palate. Give them a try. I think you’ll like them too.

2019 Gary Farrell Russian River Chardonnay ($36) -With aromas of green apples and lightly toasted bread, this Sonoma County chardonnay is both rich and well-balanced. Tropical fruit, spice and nuances of vanilla characterize this lovely mouthful of wine drawn from vineyards close to the Pacific Ocean. Try it with sauteed crabcakes drizzled with a remoulade sauce.

2016 Chateau Laforge ($40) – From Saint-Emilion in Bordeaux, this Grand Cru blend is comprised of merlot with just a little touch of cabernet franc. The wine is ripe, rich and full of dark berry flavors with velvety tannins. It drinks more like a Napa merlot than something from Bordeaux. Pair this wine with grilled lamb chops marinated in olive oil, lemon, rosemary, garlic and Dijon mustard.

John Brown is also a novelist. His latest book Augie’s World, is a sequel to his debut novel, Augie’s War. Both novels are available in print and audio  at Amazon. You can find out more about his novels and wine columns at wordsbyjohnbrown.com

 

Red wine and serving temperature: The Truth!

So, there I was: sitting at a table under a multi-colored umbrella on the deck of a semi-high-class eatery. The weather was very warm, but pleasantly dry, and I had a hankering for a wine that -given the climate and my menu selection– probably qualified as a counterintuitive choice. I wanted a glass of red wine to accompany the grilled octopus I had ordered.

“Are you sure about that, sir?” my officious wait person asked in a snickering and patronizing voice. “I have a lovely pinot grigio which would pair much better with our polpo alla griglia,” he added with a bit of a flourish, obviously flaunting his Italian linguistic skills.

I smiled up at the fellow and repeated my request, disregarding the look of disdain and disapproval on his face. In a few moments he returned with my glass of pinot noir and then left in a huff. The wine was tepid, almost warm. I waved my waiter over and asked if he had any bottles of red that were a bit cooler. I didn’t even ask for pinot noir. I just wanted a glass of red – any red – that would provide a bit of cooling contrast to the grilled octopus.

Without hesitation, he scolded me with the standard (and archaic) reply that red wine should be served at room temperature. I didn’t bother to remind him that we were outside, and that the temperature was 90 plus degrees Fahrenheit. I just asked him to bring me a glass of ice and a spoon. Of course, he was appalled when I proceeded to add two or three cubes to my pinot noir, stirring the wine for a few seconds before retrieving what was left of the ice from my glass.

I know I’ve written about red wine and proper serving temperature before, so I won’t go into any more detail on the subject other than to remind you that the above-mentioned adage was first uttered in the 1500’s. Rooms back then were a lot cooler -even in the summer. The most compatible wine and food pairing cannot overcome a red that is served too warm. The only way to enjoy a red wine that is served too warm is to have your waiter take it back and put it in ice or ask for an ice bucket. At home in the summer, I always put the red I intend to open at dinner in the refrigerator for about a half hour. However, if you’re in a restaurant and the red you’ve ordered by the glass is warm, don’t be afraid to ask for some ice and a spoon. You may get some strange looks, but you’ll be a lot happier with the wine.

Most often, red wine is chosen to enhance meals with some type of protein, usually beef, pork, lamb or even fish such as salmon. But you can also use reds to pair with grilled or sauteed vegetables. I love to drink red wine with one of my all-time favorite dishes: fried peppers, Italian style.

Here’s the simple, but delicious recipe. You’ll need at least two red, yellow and green bell peppers, two or three hot banana peppers as well as salt, black pepper, onions, garlic, basil and parsley. Slice the all the peppers in three-inch-long pieces, discarding the seeds, and then coarsely chop one large onion. Using a cast iron skillet, heat about a quarter cup of olive and add the peppers and onions, at medium-high heat, to the pan. After about five minutes, add three cloves of coarsely chopped garlic to the mix along with several shakes of salt and black pepper. Stir often so the veggies don’t burn, but you’ll want them to get slightly scorched. Once the peppers are cooked, plate them and add freshly chopped basil and parsley to the mix. Serve the peppers with crusty bread and enjoy.

Here are two red wines that really enhance the recipe above. And, of course, they should be served slightly chilled.

2019 Castello di Bossi Chianti Classico ($23) – From Tuscany, this 100 percent Sangiovese is the essence of why Chianti Classico is such a wonderful accompaniment to food. It’s medium-bodied, but ripe, with flavors of dark plums, a touch of anise and a kiss of oak. Perfectly balanced, the wine pairs seamlessly with the tangy fried pepper concoction.

2020 Martin Ray Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($21) Ripe red cherries and hints of cinnamon highlight this fruit forward pinot noir. The wine has a silky texture and is perfectly balanced from grapes grown in the cool temperatures of the Sonoma coast. This pinot noir provides a refreshing counterpoint to the rich and spicy flavors of the fried peppers

John Brown is also a novelist. His latest book Augie’s World, is a sequel to his debut novel, Augie’s War. Both novels are available in print and audio  at Amazon. You can find out more about his novels and wine columns at wordsbyjohnbrown.com

 

Wines for Caprese

I don’t know about you, but after a particularly good meal accompanied by a glass or two of fine wine, I can become pensive, reflective and downright hillbilly profound. One evening last week after such a repast, I came to the happy realization that, despite the troublesome distractions of the times, including wars, natural disasters, pandemics and global warming, it’s less than two months until the Backyard Brawl.

Perspective is important. For example, it has taken me several decades to accept these absolute truisms: there aren’t many things that I can control; and there are even fewer things I can depend on. So, it’s important to concentrate on the things we do have some ability to control -like the food we eat and the wine we drink.

We are blessed here in West Virginia with a substantial agrarian economy which produces a cornucopia of vegetables, fruits, meats and grains through the state’s many farmers’ markets. Here in Charleston, we have easy access to these local products at the Capitol Market. The Capitol Market’s outdoor vendors’ stalls are now overflowing with produce, and it’s prime time to take advantage of their bounty.

I’d like to share a simple, but delicious, recipe composed of ripe tomatoes, herbs, extra virgin olive oil, fresh mozzarella, basil, salt and black pepper. The Italians call this delectable concoction Caprese, and I’m sure many of you have consumed this delicacy. But you’re probably confused as to which, if any, wine can be appropriately paired with the dish.

Today, I’m going to recommend several wines that will complement and enhance this simple salad. Unlike other vegetable-centric dishes -like roasted peppers, squash, onions or broccoli- that can stand up to medium-bodied reds, Caprese is best enjoyed with crisp, dry white wines.

I start with sweet, ripe, red tomatoes such as heirlooms or beefsteaks. You can use yellow tomatoes, but they have less acidity, and I prefer red varieties, especially if you’re going to pair them with wine. Slice the tomatoes in rounds and place them on a large dish. Then, shake a good salt on them (I use our local J.Q. Dickenson finishing salt) along with a grind or two of black pepper. Next take a handful of fresh, locally grown basil, chop it coarsely and sprinkle it liberally onto the tomatoes.

Aside from the tomatoes, the most important ingredient in this recipe is the quality of the extra virgin olive oil you choose. I prefer to use Villa DiTrapano oil which is produced from olives grown on the property in Italy of a local Charleston family. This superb oil is available at the Capitol Market Wine Shop as well as from several other businesses around the city and state.

Finally, I’ll slice fresh mozzarella into half-inch rounds and place them onto the tomato slices. Then sprinkle a little more salt, black pepper, olive oil and basil on top the mozzarella.Of course, you’ll need fresh bread to accompany the Caprese, and to mop up the delicious tomato and oil residue on the plate. My favorite loaves (focaccia and baguette) are baked by Charleston Bread on Capitol Street right down from Capitol Market.

So, what about wine to accompany your Caprese? Red wines, even light ones, seem to overwhelm the delicate flavors of the dish. White wine is the best vinous accompaniment to Caprese, and I suggest unoaked, crisp, fruit forward varietals. Here are some of my favorites.
From Italy, try Fiano from the Campania region, Arneis and Cortese from the Piedmont and Verdicchio from the Marches. From southern France, Caprese pairs especially well with Grenache Blanc and Picpoul de Pinet. You might also try the delicate Tavel rose’ from near the Mediterranean coast. Finally, Albarino from Spain would be an excellent choice to accompany Caprese.

Enjoy

John Brown is also a novelist. His latest book Augie’s World, which is a sequel to his debut novel, Augie’s War. Both novels are available in print or audio  at Amazon. You can find out more about his novels and wine columns at wordsbyjohnbrown.com

 

 

 

Wines to Toast the Fourth of July

Independence Day is just around the corner, so I’ve been thinking about wines I’ll use to toast Uncle Sam on his 246th birthday. At the risk of sounding provincial, I’m going to stick with wines from the good old US of A to celebrate the Fourth of July. And since most of us will be consuming picnic-type fare this coming holiday weekend, I’m going to suggest an All-American lineup of wines to pair with your Independence Day meals.

I must (grudgingly) admit, though, that the best wines this country produces are made from European vines (vitis vinifera) like cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay and zinfandel, etc. Unfortunately, native American vines (vitis labrusca) produce better grape juice (concord) and waterfalls (Niagara) than they do wine.

However, there is one European vine, zinfandel, that is commonly thought of as “America’s grape”- even though its original home has been the subject of heated debate. Zinfandel vine cuttings were brought to California and planted in the 1850’s near the town of Sonoma. For years, experts argued that zinfandel is really an Italian grape known as Primitivo. More recent DNA research of the vine, though, indicates that zinfandel is really a Croatian varietal. The true name of the grape is Crljenak – a word that is not only unpronounceable but has also been banned from use in international spelling bee competitions.

I hope you won’t be disappointed, but I think it’s time to move on from this enthralling examination of vine etymology to the slightly less interesting topic of today’s column. So, for your consideration, here are some All-American wine pairing ideas to accompany the foods most of us will be consuming this Fourth of July.

Aperitif

2021 Chateau Ste Michelle Columbia Valley Rose ($15) – From Washington State, this lovely pink wine is comprised of syrah and cabernet sauvignon with a touch of grenache. It’s round, yet crisp, with strawberry and melon flavors and would be great accompaniment to cheese, veggies and dip or fruit. There is no better celebratory wine, especially in the summer, to kick things off for your picnic or holiday dinner than rose’.

 

Veggies/Fish

2021 St. Supery Sauvignon Blanc ($28) – This Napa Valley white is a bit of a richer style sauvignon blanc with hints of citrus and herbs. If you’re a vegetarian, you’ll enjoy this wine because it pairs especially well with grilled veggies like red bell peppers, Vidalia onions, zucchini and asparagus. For you pescatarians out there, the wine will also match up well with grilled white fish such as grouper, Chilean sea bass or cod that is glazed with lemon, dill, butter and minced garlic.

 

Barbecue

Seghesio Old Vine Zinfandel ($32) – From Sonoma County, this is a perennial favorite of mine and in my pantheon of great zins which include wines like Ridge, Grgich Hills and Turley. Blackberry and dark cherry flavors with hints of earth and cedar highlight this delicious mouthful of wine. Your main entrée this weekend will likely run the culinary spectrum from hot dogs and hamburgers, to chicken and ribs to pork chops and/or steaks. Seghesio’s versatile flavor profile will enhance your enjoyment of any of the above dishes, even those brushed with some type of barbecue sauce.

Fireworks

2017 Iron Horse Classic Vintage Brut ($48) This Champaign-style sparkler from Sonoma County’s Russian River appellation has ripe pear and green apple flavor with nuances of brioche. Comprised of pinot noir (70%) and chardonnay (30%) it’s the ultimate celebratory American sparkling wine. Just after dark when the Fourth of July fireworks show begins, I’ll lift a glass of Iron Horse and toast Independence Day!

Happy Fourth of July

John Brown is also a novelist. His latest book Augie’s World, which is a sequel to his debut novel, Augie’s War, is available online at Amazon. You can find out more about his novels and wine columns at wordsbyjohnbrown.com

 

 

For wine lovers: Milo’s in Davis

Many of you have ventured to the Canaan Valley and the towns of nearby Davis and Thomas. I have written about some of my favorite eating and sipping establishments there such as Sirianni’s Café, Stumptown Ales and The Billy Motel in Davis, along with Farm Up Table Restaurant, Riverfront Wood Fired Pizza and Tiptop Coffee in Thomas. I’m also excited about the renewed emphasis on food and wine at Canaan Valley Resort with the recent hiring of an internationally trained executive chef. From a culinary perspective, things are looking up in Tucker County.

I’ve been privileged to have had a second home in that mountain county for the past three decades. I am still in awe of the physical beauty of the place, but I’m even more blissfully affected by the almost mystical ambiance of the mountains to produce feelings of well-being and peace. And those pleasant feelings are enhanced by sipping a glass of wine while meditating on Mother Nature’s bounty.

Don’t worry, though, I’m not going to launch into Deepak Chopra-speak and suggest mindfulness, meditation and chanting. But like that Indian mystic and alternative medicine advocate, I have always touted the healing powers of the naturally produced elixir we all love. And when I find an establishment in a location like Tucker County, where you can sip and sup in a such an inspirational physical environment, well, I’ve got to tell you about it.

The newest and most wine-centric of all the eateries in the county is Milo’s Café & Restaurant in Davis. Located on the first floor of the Bright Morning Inn B&B, Milo’s features an excellent and reasonably priced menu with an emphasis on locally grown and produced food. The cafe also features the most extensive wines by the glass list of just about any restaurant in the state! Oh, and the staff at Milo’s is first class, providing excellent service and in-depth knowledge of both the menu selections as well as the wine list. The restaurant is open for breakfast and dinner Thursday through Monday, has weekly musical entertainment and has a very good selection of craft beers. When the weather warms a bit, you can also enjoy your meal and/or beverage outdoors in Milo’s side yard

It’s evident that owner Brent Markwood (who also owns Bright Morning Inn) has spent a tremendous amount of time ruminating about wines to accompany his restaurant menu because he has succeeded in compiling an eclectic and regularly changing list of international bottles. And he has priced the wines exceptionally well with 18 of the 25 wines by the glass under $10. Only four of the more than 30 wines on the list are by the bottle only. Six bottles are from California while the international offerings come from Australia (3), Germany (2), France, (8) Italy (5), New Zealand (2) and one each from Chile, Argentina, South Africa and Spain.

On my most recent visit to Milo’s, my dining group sampled the following: whites: 2018 Chateau de Valmer Vouvray; 2020 St. Kilda Southeastern Australia Chardonnay; 2020 Dr. Loosen Mosel Riesling and 2019 La Doria Gavi. Reds: 2019 Dante Pinot Noir from Sonoma County; 2020 Mont Gravet Carignan; 2018 Giuseppe Barbera D’Alba; and 2018 Cortijo Tempranillo Rioja.

My favorite of all the above-mentioned wines that evening was the 2020 Mont Gravet Carignan ($6 a glass). This wine proves my oft-repeated admonition that you don’t need to spend extravagantly for a good wine. From the Languedoc region of southern France, this deeply purple wine, is rich and chock full of blackberry and dark cherry flavors. Perfectly balanced, the wine was recommended on Milo’s menu to accompany my entrée of pan sauteed pork medallions with an au poivre sauce. I have to say it paired perfectly with the dish.

So, next time you venture up to Tucker County, stop in at Milo’s for a bit of dinner and a nice glass of wine. Or, if you’re so inclined, find an outdoor spot and channel your inner Deepak Chopra while you sip an adult purple or white beverage and allow the spirit (s) to elevate your enjoyment of all that Mother Nature has to offer

John Brown is also a novelist. His latest book Augie’s World, which is a sequel to his debut novel, Augie’s War, is available online at Amazon. You can find out more about his novels and wine columns at wordsbyjohnbrown.com

 

 

Aunt Notie’s Leg (of lamb)

Leg of lamb is always the featured entrée in our home on Easter Sunday. I must admit, however, that my first experience with lamb could have been my last. That inedible dish was prepared in the time-honored and assertively bland tradition of English gastronomy. It was roasted in its own pungent juices, devoid of any spices and then served with huge dollops of mint jelly to obscure the gamy taste.

Unfortunately, we Americans do not often eat lamb because of this gaminess. When it comes to meat, we prefer beef, chicken or pork, and we are unaccustomed to gamy-flavored meat, except for venison. But venison is usually made palatable by the addition of flavoring spices and/or marinating – which is what we’re going to do in the recipe I’m sharing with you below.

Thank goodness that one of my Italian aunts later shamed and nearly force fed me into trying her version of lamb. Her rendition featured a boned and butterflied leg of lamb marinated in a heavenly bath of olive oil, wine and lemons with copious amounts of garlic and other spices happily swimming in the liquid.

So, in honor of my late Aunt Notie, who never met a garlic clove she didn’t covet, I’ll share her recipe for the absolutely best leg of lamb you will ever prepare! And to truly elevate this transcendent culinary experience, I’m going to suggest two round, rich and supple red wines to accompany the dish.

I’ve eaten lamb raised in the U.S. and from other countries such as Italy, France, Australia and New Zealand. I’m convinced the folks from the two Down Under nations produce the best tasting lamb, especially from the leg and rack of lamb cuts. The leg of lamb I used for this recipe was raised in New Zealand.

Wherever you purchase the lamb, you’ll need a boned leg that is opened up (butterflied) and which lies flat. Butterflying the leg allows it to absorb the spicy marinade more completely, and it insures more even roasting. If you have a Sam’s Club or Walmart nearby, you won’t need to worry about boning and butterflying the critter’s shank since the product they sell is already packaged that way. Simply open the package and remove the netting from around the leg. If you find a leg of lamb that is only available as a whole piece, ask the store butcher to bone and butterfly it for you. It is worth the effort.

My favorite wines to accompany leg of lamb are big and red, and you should try one (or both) of these bottles.

2019 Ridge Geyserville ($45) – This mostly zinfandel (71%) is blended with carignane and petite sirah and is a delicious mouthful of dark berry flavors with hints of vanilla on the finish. The richness of the wine makes it an absolutely spectacular pairing with the grilled lamb.

2018 E. Guigal Gigondas Rouge – ($38) – Gigondas is village near the renowned Chateauneuf du Pape appellation and its red wines are on a par with its more famous and expensive neighbor. This blend of grenache, syrah and mourvedre delivers full-bodied red fruit flavors, hints of licorice and a very spicy finish that compliments the smoky flavors of the grilled lamb.

Aunt Notie’s Leg (of lamb)

Ingredients:

One five to six-pound boned and butterflied leg of lamb
One half bottle of good dry red wine
Eight ounces extra virgin olive
Two ounces of red wine vinegar
Eight garlic cloves, chopped finely
One tablespoon of Dijon mustard
Three tablespoons of fresh rosemary chopped or two of dried rosemary
Two teaspoons of freshly ground black pepper
One tablespoon of salt
Four lemons juiced and cut into quarters

Preparation

Trim some of the thickest fat from the lamb
Score both sides of lamb making cuts diagonally across the meat
Combine the salt, pepper, garlic, rosemary and mustard into a mixture
Rub the mixture all over both sides of the lamb
Place lamb in a large container or gallon plastic bag
Add the wine, lemons, vinegar and juice and pour in and cover lamb
Put in the refrigerator overnight or for at least eight hours
Prepare a charcoal fire or heat up the gas grill
Remove meat from the marinade and pat dry
Place meat directly over the fire four minutes per side until seared
Cook meat indirectly for 30 minutes until inside temp. reaches 130F
Allow the meat to sit covered loosely with foil for 20 minutes
Slice and serve immediately

John Brown is also a novelist. His latest book Augie’s World, which is a sequel to his debut novel, Augie’s War, is available online at Amazon. You can find out more about his novels and wine columns at wordsbyjohnbrown.com