Vines & Vittles

Youth Movement needed in wine industry!

I came of age during a time when beer was… well… just beer. Oftentimes, the suds were chased with a shot glass full of cheap hootch. Heck, if you ever wanted something other than cold, yellow, pilsner in my neighborhood, you had to wait until Christmastime when a regional brewer produced something called “Old Frothingslosh.” One of the taglines in the commercials for Old Frothingslosh read: “A whale of an ale for the pale, stale, male.” Another one read: “A beer so light the foam is on the bottom.”

Aside from unconventional (and apocryphal) brews like Old Frothingslosh, beer remained predictable (and boring) in this country with most of the suds mass-produced by large industrial type breweries. That is, until the past couple of decades when enterprising beer lovers re-invented the business by creating a new category of products called craft brews.

Since then, craft breweries have sprung up in great numbers all over the US with more than 25 such businesses now operating in West Virginia. These new businesses have taken beer to a whole new level by qualitatively improving traditional brews like pilsners, stouts and ales, and by developing unique products using non-traditional ingredients such as fruits and herbs.

 

Okay, you’re probably thinking: why is this wineaux (that’s French for wino) spending so much time on beer? Well, I have confession to make, I actually like beer, especially the stuff being made by West Virginia craft breweries such as Stumptown Ales in Davis and Weathered Ground in Ghent. But, let me be clear, I do prefer the taste of wine over beer, particularly when it comes to pairing either beverage with food. However, I must give credit where credit is due. Simply stated, the wine industry is stagnant and seems content to appeal to those of us who are predominately long in the tooth.

Craft brewers, conversely, have captured the imagination and palates of people who, statistically, will be on this planet much longer than those of us to whom the wine industry, stubbornly, continues to market. I certainly hope that my intuition and subjective assessment of the situation is wrong, but I don’t see many young adults at the numerous wine events, such as tastings and dinners, that I attend on a regular basis. And that’s unfortunate because I’ve never witnessed a more extensive variety of good to great wine that’s now available in the marketplace – and at very reasonable prices.

I’m not sure what advice to give to those institutions charged with the long-term survival and growth of the wine industry except to suggest they somehow find a way of making the product less intimidating. A good place to start might be to improve the information on the wine bottle’s label. Instead of the usual mumbo-jumbo label info (most of which is written in a foreign language), wineries could provide food pairing suggestions, appropriate serving temperatures and/or ways to preserve leftover wine to enjoy another day.

If all else fails, maybe we can appeal to the younger generation by developing a wine version of Old Frothingslosh. We might call it “Old Bacchus Sauce “– a wine so heavy the sediment settles on top! But hey, brothers and sisters of the vine, you can be assured I’m not letting up on my evangelistic zeal for wine. As a matter of fact, here are two wines I’ve tasted recently that have pleased my palate. Give them a try. I think you’ll like them too.

2019 Gary Farrell Russian River Chardonnay ($36) -With aromas of green apples and lightly toasted bread, this Sonoma County chardonnay is both rich and well-balanced. Tropical fruit, spice and nuances of vanilla characterize this lovely mouthful of wine drawn from vineyards close to the Pacific Ocean. Try it with sauteed crabcakes drizzled with a remoulade sauce.

2016 Chateau Laforge ($40) – From Saint-Emilion in Bordeaux, this Grand Cru blend is comprised of merlot with just a little touch of cabernet franc. The wine is ripe, rich and full of dark berry flavors with velvety tannins. It drinks more like a Napa merlot than something from Bordeaux. Pair this wine with grilled lamb chops marinated in olive oil, lemon, rosemary, garlic and Dijon mustard.

John Brown is also a novelist. His latest book Augie’s World, is a sequel to his debut novel, Augie’s War. Both novels are available in print and audio  at Amazon. You can find out more about his novels and wine columns at wordsbyjohnbrown.com

 

Red wine and serving temperature: The Truth!

So, there I was: sitting at a table under a multi-colored umbrella on the deck of a semi-high-class eatery. The weather was very warm, but pleasantly dry, and I had a hankering for a wine that -given the climate and my menu selection– probably qualified as a counterintuitive choice. I wanted a glass of red wine to accompany the grilled octopus I had ordered.

“Are you sure about that, sir?” my officious wait person asked in a snickering and patronizing voice. “I have a lovely pinot grigio which would pair much better with our polpo alla griglia,” he added with a bit of a flourish, obviously flaunting his Italian linguistic skills.

I smiled up at the fellow and repeated my request, disregarding the look of disdain and disapproval on his face. In a few moments he returned with my glass of pinot noir and then left in a huff. The wine was tepid, almost warm. I waved my waiter over and asked if he had any bottles of red that were a bit cooler. I didn’t even ask for pinot noir. I just wanted a glass of red – any red – that would provide a bit of cooling contrast to the grilled octopus.

Without hesitation, he scolded me with the standard (and archaic) reply that red wine should be served at room temperature. I didn’t bother to remind him that we were outside, and that the temperature was 90 plus degrees Fahrenheit. I just asked him to bring me a glass of ice and a spoon. Of course, he was appalled when I proceeded to add two or three cubes to my pinot noir, stirring the wine for a few seconds before retrieving what was left of the ice from my glass.

I know I’ve written about red wine and proper serving temperature before, so I won’t go into any more detail on the subject other than to remind you that the above-mentioned adage was first uttered in the 1500’s. Rooms back then were a lot cooler -even in the summer. The most compatible wine and food pairing cannot overcome a red that is served too warm. The only way to enjoy a red wine that is served too warm is to have your waiter take it back and put it in ice or ask for an ice bucket. At home in the summer, I always put the red I intend to open at dinner in the refrigerator for about a half hour. However, if you’re in a restaurant and the red you’ve ordered by the glass is warm, don’t be afraid to ask for some ice and a spoon. You may get some strange looks, but you’ll be a lot happier with the wine.

Most often, red wine is chosen to enhance meals with some type of protein, usually beef, pork, lamb or even fish such as salmon. But you can also use reds to pair with grilled or sauteed vegetables. I love to drink red wine with one of my all-time favorite dishes: fried peppers, Italian style.

Here’s the simple, but delicious recipe. You’ll need at least two red, yellow and green bell peppers, two or three hot banana peppers as well as salt, black pepper, onions, garlic, basil and parsley. Slice the all the peppers in three-inch-long pieces, discarding the seeds, and then coarsely chop one large onion. Using a cast iron skillet, heat about a quarter cup of olive and add the peppers and onions, at medium-high heat, to the pan. After about five minutes, add three cloves of coarsely chopped garlic to the mix along with several shakes of salt and black pepper. Stir often so the veggies don’t burn, but you’ll want them to get slightly scorched. Once the peppers are cooked, plate them and add freshly chopped basil and parsley to the mix. Serve the peppers with crusty bread and enjoy.

Here are two red wines that really enhance the recipe above. And, of course, they should be served slightly chilled.

2019 Castello di Bossi Chianti Classico ($23) – From Tuscany, this 100 percent Sangiovese is the essence of why Chianti Classico is such a wonderful accompaniment to food. It’s medium-bodied, but ripe, with flavors of dark plums, a touch of anise and a kiss of oak. Perfectly balanced, the wine pairs seamlessly with the tangy fried pepper concoction.

2020 Martin Ray Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($21) Ripe red cherries and hints of cinnamon highlight this fruit forward pinot noir. The wine has a silky texture and is perfectly balanced from grapes grown in the cool temperatures of the Sonoma coast. This pinot noir provides a refreshing counterpoint to the rich and spicy flavors of the fried peppers

John Brown is also a novelist. His latest book Augie’s World, is a sequel to his debut novel, Augie’s War. Both novels are available in print and audio  at Amazon. You can find out more about his novels and wine columns at wordsbyjohnbrown.com

 

Wines for Caprese

I don’t know about you, but after a particularly good meal accompanied by a glass or two of fine wine, I can become pensive, reflective and downright hillbilly profound. One evening last week after such a repast, I came to the happy realization that, despite the troublesome distractions of the times, including wars, natural disasters, pandemics and global warming, it’s less than two months until the Backyard Brawl.

Perspective is important. For example, it has taken me several decades to accept these absolute truisms: there aren’t many things that I can control; and there are even fewer things I can depend on. So, it’s important to concentrate on the things we do have some ability to control -like the food we eat and the wine we drink.

We are blessed here in West Virginia with a substantial agrarian economy which produces a cornucopia of vegetables, fruits, meats and grains through the state’s many farmers’ markets. Here in Charleston, we have easy access to these local products at the Capitol Market. The Capitol Market’s outdoor vendors’ stalls are now overflowing with produce, and it’s prime time to take advantage of their bounty.

I’d like to share a simple, but delicious, recipe composed of ripe tomatoes, herbs, extra virgin olive oil, fresh mozzarella, basil, salt and black pepper. The Italians call this delectable concoction Caprese, and I’m sure many of you have consumed this delicacy. But you’re probably confused as to which, if any, wine can be appropriately paired with the dish.

Today, I’m going to recommend several wines that will complement and enhance this simple salad. Unlike other vegetable-centric dishes -like roasted peppers, squash, onions or broccoli- that can stand up to medium-bodied reds, Caprese is best enjoyed with crisp, dry white wines.

I start with sweet, ripe, red tomatoes such as heirlooms or beefsteaks. You can use yellow tomatoes, but they have less acidity, and I prefer red varieties, especially if you’re going to pair them with wine. Slice the tomatoes in rounds and place them on a large dish. Then, shake a good salt on them (I use our local J.Q. Dickenson finishing salt) along with a grind or two of black pepper. Next take a handful of fresh, locally grown basil, chop it coarsely and sprinkle it liberally onto the tomatoes.

Aside from the tomatoes, the most important ingredient in this recipe is the quality of the extra virgin olive oil you choose. I prefer to use Villa DiTrapano oil which is produced from olives grown on the property in Italy of a local Charleston family. This superb oil is available at the Capitol Market Wine Shop as well as from several other businesses around the city and state.

Finally, I’ll slice fresh mozzarella into half-inch rounds and place them onto the tomato slices. Then sprinkle a little more salt, black pepper, olive oil and basil on top the mozzarella.Of course, you’ll need fresh bread to accompany the Caprese, and to mop up the delicious tomato and oil residue on the plate. My favorite loaves (focaccia and baguette) are baked by Charleston Bread on Capitol Street right down from Capitol Market.

So, what about wine to accompany your Caprese? Red wines, even light ones, seem to overwhelm the delicate flavors of the dish. White wine is the best vinous accompaniment to Caprese, and I suggest unoaked, crisp, fruit forward varietals. Here are some of my favorites.
From Italy, try Fiano from the Campania region, Arneis and Cortese from the Piedmont and Verdicchio from the Marches. From southern France, Caprese pairs especially well with Grenache Blanc and Picpoul de Pinet. You might also try the delicate Tavel rose’ from near the Mediterranean coast. Finally, Albarino from Spain would be an excellent choice to accompany Caprese.

Enjoy

John Brown is also a novelist. His latest book Augie’s World, which is a sequel to his debut novel, Augie’s War. Both novels are available in print or audio  at Amazon. You can find out more about his novels and wine columns at wordsbyjohnbrown.com

 

 

 

Wines to Toast the Fourth of July

Independence Day is just around the corner, so I’ve been thinking about wines I’ll use to toast Uncle Sam on his 246th birthday. At the risk of sounding provincial, I’m going to stick with wines from the good old US of A to celebrate the Fourth of July. And since most of us will be consuming picnic-type fare this coming holiday weekend, I’m going to suggest an All-American lineup of wines to pair with your Independence Day meals.

I must (grudgingly) admit, though, that the best wines this country produces are made from European vines (vitis vinifera) like cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay and zinfandel, etc. Unfortunately, native American vines (vitis labrusca) produce better grape juice (concord) and waterfalls (Niagara) than they do wine.

However, there is one European vine, zinfandel, that is commonly thought of as “America’s grape”- even though its original home has been the subject of heated debate. Zinfandel vine cuttings were brought to California and planted in the 1850’s near the town of Sonoma. For years, experts argued that zinfandel is really an Italian grape known as Primitivo. More recent DNA research of the vine, though, indicates that zinfandel is really a Croatian varietal. The true name of the grape is Crljenak – a word that is not only unpronounceable but has also been banned from use in international spelling bee competitions.

I hope you won’t be disappointed, but I think it’s time to move on from this enthralling examination of vine etymology to the slightly less interesting topic of today’s column. So, for your consideration, here are some All-American wine pairing ideas to accompany the foods most of us will be consuming this Fourth of July.

Aperitif

2021 Chateau Ste Michelle Columbia Valley Rose ($15) – From Washington State, this lovely pink wine is comprised of syrah and cabernet sauvignon with a touch of grenache. It’s round, yet crisp, with strawberry and melon flavors and would be great accompaniment to cheese, veggies and dip or fruit. There is no better celebratory wine, especially in the summer, to kick things off for your picnic or holiday dinner than rose’.

 

Veggies/Fish

2021 St. Supery Sauvignon Blanc ($28) – This Napa Valley white is a bit of a richer style sauvignon blanc with hints of citrus and herbs. If you’re a vegetarian, you’ll enjoy this wine because it pairs especially well with grilled veggies like red bell peppers, Vidalia onions, zucchini and asparagus. For you pescatarians out there, the wine will also match up well with grilled white fish such as grouper, Chilean sea bass or cod that is glazed with lemon, dill, butter and minced garlic.

 

Barbecue

Seghesio Old Vine Zinfandel ($32) – From Sonoma County, this is a perennial favorite of mine and in my pantheon of great zins which include wines like Ridge, Grgich Hills and Turley. Blackberry and dark cherry flavors with hints of earth and cedar highlight this delicious mouthful of wine. Your main entrée this weekend will likely run the culinary spectrum from hot dogs and hamburgers, to chicken and ribs to pork chops and/or steaks. Seghesio’s versatile flavor profile will enhance your enjoyment of any of the above dishes, even those brushed with some type of barbecue sauce.

Fireworks

2017 Iron Horse Classic Vintage Brut ($48) This Champaign-style sparkler from Sonoma County’s Russian River appellation has ripe pear and green apple flavor with nuances of brioche. Comprised of pinot noir (70%) and chardonnay (30%) it’s the ultimate celebratory American sparkling wine. Just after dark when the Fourth of July fireworks show begins, I’ll lift a glass of Iron Horse and toast Independence Day!

Happy Fourth of July

John Brown is also a novelist. His latest book Augie’s World, which is a sequel to his debut novel, Augie’s War, is available online at Amazon. You can find out more about his novels and wine columns at wordsbyjohnbrown.com

 

 

For wine lovers: Milo’s in Davis

Many of you have ventured to the Canaan Valley and the towns of nearby Davis and Thomas. I have written about some of my favorite eating and sipping establishments there such as Sirianni’s Café, Stumptown Ales and The Billy Motel in Davis, along with Farm Up Table Restaurant, Riverfront Wood Fired Pizza and Tiptop Coffee in Thomas. I’m also excited about the renewed emphasis on food and wine at Canaan Valley Resort with the recent hiring of an internationally trained executive chef. From a culinary perspective, things are looking up in Tucker County.

I’ve been privileged to have had a second home in that mountain county for the past three decades. I am still in awe of the physical beauty of the place, but I’m even more blissfully affected by the almost mystical ambiance of the mountains to produce feelings of well-being and peace. And those pleasant feelings are enhanced by sipping a glass of wine while meditating on Mother Nature’s bounty.

Don’t worry, though, I’m not going to launch into Deepak Chopra-speak and suggest mindfulness, meditation and chanting. But like that Indian mystic and alternative medicine advocate, I have always touted the healing powers of the naturally produced elixir we all love. And when I find an establishment in a location like Tucker County, where you can sip and sup in a such an inspirational physical environment, well, I’ve got to tell you about it.

The newest and most wine-centric of all the eateries in the county is Milo’s Café & Restaurant in Davis. Located on the first floor of the Bright Morning Inn B&B, Milo’s features an excellent and reasonably priced menu with an emphasis on locally grown and produced food. The cafe also features the most extensive wines by the glass list of just about any restaurant in the state! Oh, and the staff at Milo’s is first class, providing excellent service and in-depth knowledge of both the menu selections as well as the wine list. The restaurant is open for breakfast and dinner Thursday through Monday, has weekly musical entertainment and has a very good selection of craft beers. When the weather warms a bit, you can also enjoy your meal and/or beverage outdoors in Milo’s side yard

It’s evident that owner Brent Markwood (who also owns Bright Morning Inn) has spent a tremendous amount of time ruminating about wines to accompany his restaurant menu because he has succeeded in compiling an eclectic and regularly changing list of international bottles. And he has priced the wines exceptionally well with 18 of the 25 wines by the glass under $10. Only four of the more than 30 wines on the list are by the bottle only. Six bottles are from California while the international offerings come from Australia (3), Germany (2), France, (8) Italy (5), New Zealand (2) and one each from Chile, Argentina, South Africa and Spain.

On my most recent visit to Milo’s, my dining group sampled the following: whites: 2018 Chateau de Valmer Vouvray; 2020 St. Kilda Southeastern Australia Chardonnay; 2020 Dr. Loosen Mosel Riesling and 2019 La Doria Gavi. Reds: 2019 Dante Pinot Noir from Sonoma County; 2020 Mont Gravet Carignan; 2018 Giuseppe Barbera D’Alba; and 2018 Cortijo Tempranillo Rioja.

My favorite of all the above-mentioned wines that evening was the 2020 Mont Gravet Carignan ($6 a glass). This wine proves my oft-repeated admonition that you don’t need to spend extravagantly for a good wine. From the Languedoc region of southern France, this deeply purple wine, is rich and chock full of blackberry and dark cherry flavors. Perfectly balanced, the wine was recommended on Milo’s menu to accompany my entrée of pan sauteed pork medallions with an au poivre sauce. I have to say it paired perfectly with the dish.

So, next time you venture up to Tucker County, stop in at Milo’s for a bit of dinner and a nice glass of wine. Or, if you’re so inclined, find an outdoor spot and channel your inner Deepak Chopra while you sip an adult purple or white beverage and allow the spirit (s) to elevate your enjoyment of all that Mother Nature has to offer

John Brown is also a novelist. His latest book Augie’s World, which is a sequel to his debut novel, Augie’s War, is available online at Amazon. You can find out more about his novels and wine columns at wordsbyjohnbrown.com

 

 

Aunt Notie’s Leg (of lamb)

Leg of lamb is always the featured entrée in our home on Easter Sunday. I must admit, however, that my first experience with lamb could have been my last. That inedible dish was prepared in the time-honored and assertively bland tradition of English gastronomy. It was roasted in its own pungent juices, devoid of any spices and then served with huge dollops of mint jelly to obscure the gamy taste.

Unfortunately, we Americans do not often eat lamb because of this gaminess. When it comes to meat, we prefer beef, chicken or pork, and we are unaccustomed to gamy-flavored meat, except for venison. But venison is usually made palatable by the addition of flavoring spices and/or marinating – which is what we’re going to do in the recipe I’m sharing with you below.

Thank goodness that one of my Italian aunts later shamed and nearly force fed me into trying her version of lamb. Her rendition featured a boned and butterflied leg of lamb marinated in a heavenly bath of olive oil, wine and lemons with copious amounts of garlic and other spices happily swimming in the liquid.

So, in honor of my late Aunt Notie, who never met a garlic clove she didn’t covet, I’ll share her recipe for the absolutely best leg of lamb you will ever prepare! And to truly elevate this transcendent culinary experience, I’m going to suggest two round, rich and supple red wines to accompany the dish.

I’ve eaten lamb raised in the U.S. and from other countries such as Italy, France, Australia and New Zealand. I’m convinced the folks from the two Down Under nations produce the best tasting lamb, especially from the leg and rack of lamb cuts. The leg of lamb I used for this recipe was raised in New Zealand.

Wherever you purchase the lamb, you’ll need a boned leg that is opened up (butterflied) and which lies flat. Butterflying the leg allows it to absorb the spicy marinade more completely, and it insures more even roasting. If you have a Sam’s Club or Walmart nearby, you won’t need to worry about boning and butterflying the critter’s shank since the product they sell is already packaged that way. Simply open the package and remove the netting from around the leg. If you find a leg of lamb that is only available as a whole piece, ask the store butcher to bone and butterfly it for you. It is worth the effort.

My favorite wines to accompany leg of lamb are big and red, and you should try one (or both) of these bottles.

2019 Ridge Geyserville ($45) – This mostly zinfandel (71%) is blended with carignane and petite sirah and is a delicious mouthful of dark berry flavors with hints of vanilla on the finish. The richness of the wine makes it an absolutely spectacular pairing with the grilled lamb.

2018 E. Guigal Gigondas Rouge – ($38) – Gigondas is village near the renowned Chateauneuf du Pape appellation and its red wines are on a par with its more famous and expensive neighbor. This blend of grenache, syrah and mourvedre delivers full-bodied red fruit flavors, hints of licorice and a very spicy finish that compliments the smoky flavors of the grilled lamb.

Aunt Notie’s Leg (of lamb)

Ingredients:

One five to six-pound boned and butterflied leg of lamb
One half bottle of good dry red wine
Eight ounces extra virgin olive
Two ounces of red wine vinegar
Eight garlic cloves, chopped finely
One tablespoon of Dijon mustard
Three tablespoons of fresh rosemary chopped or two of dried rosemary
Two teaspoons of freshly ground black pepper
One tablespoon of salt
Four lemons juiced and cut into quarters

Preparation

Trim some of the thickest fat from the lamb
Score both sides of lamb making cuts diagonally across the meat
Combine the salt, pepper, garlic, rosemary and mustard into a mixture
Rub the mixture all over both sides of the lamb
Place lamb in a large container or gallon plastic bag
Add the wine, lemons, vinegar and juice and pour in and cover lamb
Put in the refrigerator overnight or for at least eight hours
Prepare a charcoal fire or heat up the gas grill
Remove meat from the marinade and pat dry
Place meat directly over the fire four minutes per side until seared
Cook meat indirectly for 30 minutes until inside temp. reaches 130F
Allow the meat to sit covered loosely with foil for 20 minutes
Slice and serve immediately

John Brown is also a novelist. His latest book Augie’s World, which is a sequel to his debut novel, Augie’s War, is available online at Amazon. You can find out more about his novels and wine columns at wordsbyjohnbrown.com

 

Spring wines and a Toast to Moldova

Just recently, I had the pleasure of sipping three wines I think you might find enjoyable, especially when paired with the dishes I’m also suggesting.

2019 St. Supery Dollarhide Sauvignon Blanc ($32) – The Dollarhide vineyard is nestled in the mountains on the eastern slopes of the Napa Valley. Cool evening temperatures allow this sauvignon blanc to develop flavors of citrus and anise with nuances of vanilla from oak aging. It is a rich, but well-balanced wine, that will show best when paired with one of my favorite springtime dishes: pasta with sauteed ramps and asparagus sauced with a half cup of the sauvignon blanc, olive oil, and sprinkled liberally with parmesan cheese and red pepper flakes.

2019 J. Lohr Seven Oaks Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon ($18) – From Paso Robles along California’s Central Coast, the Seven Oaks cabernet is full of dark cherry and cola flavors. It is deep and rich with noticeable tannin, but it’s still very drinkable right now. I paired the wine with grilled pork tenderloin brushed with a cumin and honey glaze.

2019 Martin Ray Vineyards Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($21)) – This medium-bodied, silky smooth wine has flavors of ripe, red cherries with hints of Asian spices. It also has a lovely balance of richness and acidity which makes it an excellent match to foods with some sweet and heat notes such as Pad Thai or barbecue chicken mopped with a sriracha infused sauce.

***

I’ve always considered grape growing and winemaking as activities that help bring the diverse peoples of our planet together. Despite our ethnic, cultural or political differences, the fruit of the vine has always offered a figurative bridge between countries, allowing us the opportunity to literally toast one other.

But the devastating carnage inflicted on Ukraine by that barbarian in the Kremlin has cast a pall on the mostly cordial and respectful relationships that the nations of the world have enjoyed for decades. I am particularly concerned for Moldova, a small, poor country that borders a large swath of Ukraine. Unfortunately, the geographic location of Moldova puts its continued existence in jeopardy. Unlike its neighbors in the region, Romania and Slovakia, Moldova is not a member of NATO and therefore does not enjoy the protections of the North Atlantic Treaty Organization.

Several years ago, I was privileged to be among several West Virginians to meet a travelling delegation of business and government officials from Moldova, a country that has a long tradition of winemaking dating back centuries. One of the visitors was a woman winemaker, and I was impressed with the wines she brought along for us to sample. I remember liking the white wines somewhat better than the reds, but all of them were very drinkable.

This small country, which was formerly part of the Soviet Union, surprisingly has more vines per capita than any other country on earth. As you would expect, most of the Moldovan wines are made from obscure, native varieties such as Viorica, a Muscat-like white, and reds such as Aurore Rara Negro which is similar to pinot noir. The country also produces value-oriented traditional varietals like pinot gris, sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon and merlot.

I fear for the people of Moldova who find themselves on the border of a country being brutalized.  I’m sure Moldovan citizens  are wondering if they will be the next domino to fall. So, in a gesture of solidarity with Moldova, and all the countries in that increasingly dangerous part of the world, I’m going to order some Moldovan wine, and then I’ll raise a glass to them and pray they will remain a free and sovereign nation.

If you would like to try the wines of Moldova, you can order them online at https://wineofmoldovausa.com/wine/

John Brown is also a novelist. His latest book Augie’s World, which is a sequel to his debut novel, Augie’s War, is available online at Amazon. You can find out more about his novels and wine columns at wordsbyjohnbrown.com

 

Drunken Short Ribs

You like to drink wine or you would not be reading this column, right? I’ll presume my assumption is correct, and I will also venture to guess you enjoy pairing the fruit of the vine with wine’s best friend – a compatible meal. But what about using wine as an ingredient in cooking your meal?

The most common questions I get from folks regarding the use of wine in cooking relate to: the type of varietal to select; the quantity of wine to use; and the quality of the bottle -which usually relates to price. The main concern people have, though, is that the wine they choose might not work with their menu item, and the meal will be ruined. And sometimes their fears are realized when they assume it’s okay to use that half bottle of Three Buck Chuck’s that’s been sitting on a shelf in the refrigerator for two weeks.

The first rule when using wine in cooking is to make sure the bottle you choose is sound – as in fresh. It should also be something you would enjoy drinking. It doesn’t have to be an expensive wine, but it should be one that has been recently opened (like in the last day or so) and is still tasty. And always bypass those bottles labelled “cooking wine” in the vinegar and oil section of the grocery store unless you want to add a cod liver oil or other medicinal nuance to the meal.

Regarding the amount wine to use in cooking, the best advice is to follow the recipe. Generally, recipes will call for a cup or less of wine. But if you aren’t following a specific recipe, remember the goal is to enhance the dish not to overwhelm it. And don’t worry that cooking with wine will add alcohol to the meal. The reality is that after a few seconds in a heated pan or pot, all the alcohol is dissipated, and only the flavor of the wine is retained by the food.

So, what are some of the foods that are positively influenced by the addition of wine? I would say most foods, but I still haven’t found the perfect wine pairing for cereal. Anyway, there are a plethora of great recipes out there that rely on wine to enhance the finished dish. You can open any cookbook or Google recipes online, but if you can’t wait, check out the hearty wintertime wine-enhanced dish I’ve detailed for you below.

I know I said earlier that most recipes call for moderate amounts of wine, but this one requires a full bottle of dry red to tame the hearty flavors of the dish. You can use any full-bodied, dry red like zinfandel, Cotes du Rhone, cabernet sauvignon or merlot. I chose the 2015 Terre Rouge Tete-a-Tete ($27). Terre Rouge is a California winery located in Amador County. The winery focuses on Rhone varieties, and this bottle is a blend of grenache and mourvèdre (39% each) and syrah (22%). Full-flavored, round and rich, it has the body to stand up to and enhance the hearty short rib recipe below.

Drunken Short Ribs

Ingredients (feeds four people)

Three to four pounds of short ribs cut into two-inch pieces
One large Dutch oven
Two tablespoons of flour
One tablespoon each of Kosher salt and coarsely ground black pepper
Three cups of beef broth
Two onions, celery stalks, carrots and red bell peppers chopped
Two tablespoons each of olive oil and tomato paste
Four cloves of garlic chopped coarsely
One tablespoon each of chopped parsley, thyme and rosemary

Preparation

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F
Season short ribs with salt and pepper and cover in flour
Sauté’ beef in Dutch oven on stovetop in batches and set aside on a plate
Add onions, carrots, celery and peppers until translucent
Add garlic and herbs and tomato paste to the Dutch oven
Stir mixture for a few minutes and then add bottle of wine
Lower heat to medium when mixture begins to boil and add short ribs
Add beef broth, cover pot and place in the oven
Cook for two and one-half hours and serve over polenta or mashed potatoes

Enjoy!!

John Brown is also a novelist. His latest book Augie’s World, which is a sequel to his debut novel, Augie’s War, is available online at Amazon. You can find out more about his novels and wine columns at wordsbyjohnbrown.com

It is the dead of winter and you’re not only sick of the cold, gray and snowy days– you’re weary and listless. You’ve probably tried to amuse yourself and your friends by playing cards, board games and just about anything to make time go faster. You may have even been desperate enough to retrieve that old exercise bike that’s been rusting in the garage for a spin around the TV room.

Well, for those of you who enjoy a glass or two of wine, I’ve got just the restorative tonic to brighten your mood. Why not gather a few friends for wine tasting? And guess what, it’s really pretty simple to do and it’s affordable too, especially if you ask friends to contribute a bottle for the event.

You can taste and evaluate as few as two wines or as many as you wish, but normally a tasting will consist of six or seven wines. You may choose to evaluate a particular wine varietal such as chardonnay or zinfandel, or you may decide to taste wines from a region like the Napa Valley or Bordeaux. You can also just put together a random group of wines and go at it.

The classic tasting begins with lighter-bodied wines (usually whites) and moves to fuller-bodied and dryer red wines. If you’re evaluating sweet wines, you can taste whites at the beginning and reds, such as port, at the end. I usually taste sparkling wines at the beginning of a tasting.

While your main goal in evaluating wine is to judge the taste, you will also want to scrutinize the aroma, and you should use stemware that allows you to observe the color and clarity of the wine in the glass. Be sure to pour tasters about one ounce of each wine so the total amount you sip over the course of the tasting approximates a glass. I’ve been to events where the pours were heavy and, within a short period of time, the tasting devolved into a wine gulping event – and that ain’t pretty.

One of my favorite tastings is designed to get folks out of their wine comfort zone and expose them to bottles they wouldn’t normally try. I conducted just such a tasting before Christmas at Fish Hawk Acres in Buckhannon. Owner Dale Hawkins calls his establishment a “Grocer-Rant” and it is a mecca of epicurean delights, including a superb wine selection, locally farmed vegetables, fresh meats and the best sandwiches I’ve had in West-By-Golly.

The following is an example of how a wine tasting list might be comprised. Incidentally, these are wines which I would also recommend for your sipping pleasure.

Veuve Du Vernay Brut Rose ($15) – This French sparkler is well balanced and fresh with raspberry and bright cherry fruit flavors. Great as an aperitif or try it with brunch-type foods such as omelets, crepes or salads.

2020 Cantina Zaccagnini ($17) Pinot Grigio -From the Abruzzo region of Italy, this wine has a tropical fruit bouquet, flavors of ripe pears and is a refreshing, well-balanced wine. Try it with various antipasti, oysters on the half shell, grilled veggies, or roasted chicken.

2019 Pazo Cillerio Albarino ($22) – From the Galicia region of Spain, this Albarino is influenced by the cool breezes of the Atlantic. Refreshing and clean, the wine is fruit forward with notes of ripe green apples and citrus flavors. Would pair extremely well with delicate seafood dishes like pan sauteed grouper in a lemon butter sauce.

2018 Grayson Cellars Chardonnay ($15) – The 2018 Grayson Chardonnay is rich with a touch of vanilla, but it shows bright, brisk acidity and good minerality with notes of pineapple and apricot. Try this California wine with chicken cordon bleu, pasta with clams or roasted Chilean sea bass.

2018 Sebastiani Pinot Noir (Central Coast) ($18) – The fruit for this 2018 Pinot Noir comes from the Central Coast of California with 60% coming from Santa Rita and 40% coming from Monterey County. The wine is ripe and rich with black cherry and spice flavors. This would be lovely with Salmon on the grill or roast pork tenderloin.

2020 Saint Cosme Cotes du Rhone ($18) This rich red wine from the southern Rhone region of France is full of spice and plum flavors. Try it with beef pot roast, chili or even lasagna.

2019 Fitch Mountain Merlot ($23) – This Dry Creek Valley wine has a silky mouth feel with flavors of chocolate spice, dark berries, coffee, caramel, and cedar. It has impressive length and a lasting, elegant finish. Try this wine with grilled rib eye steak or rack of lamb.

John Brown is also a novelist. His latest book is “Augie’s World” which is a sequel to his debut novel, Augie’s War. You can find out more about his novels at wordsbyjohnbrown.com.

Holiday gifts of Wine

I don’t know about you, but I’m a “last minute” kind of person. My modius operandi: why complete a task or fulfill an obligation now when you can wait until the warning lights start flashing red? Procrastination is my middle name. Ask my wife…no don’t do that!

Anyway, it’s almost Christmas and I haven’t yet purchased the first gift. In years past, that was not much of a problem thanks to the plethora of stores at our large indoor shopping mall – that last bastion of gifts for the tardy. But now, with the demise of the mall I‘m in panic mode. Thankfully, most of the gifts I purchase this year will be of the liquid variety, so I’ll just pop into my local wine shop to find that special bottle.

And for those of you who, like me, are looking for that last minute gift of wine, I have a whole cornucopia of vinous suggestions for your consideration. This list should enable you to find just the perfect bottle for that special person regardless of their wine preferences.

Let’s start with Champagne and sparkling wines with which you can toast Christmas and Hannukah as well as, the coming New Year. Then I’ll follow with recommendations for those white and red wine lovers respetctively.

Champagne:
Moet et Chandon White Star Brut, Nicholas Feuillatte “Blue Label” Brut, Paul Bara Brut, Veuve Cliquot (The Widow) Brut, Krug Grande Cuvee Brut, Perrier Jouet Grand Brut and Taittinger Comptes De Champagne Rose.

Sparkling Wine from other regions:
Gusbourne Brut Reserve (England); Mumm Napa Cuvee, Roderer Estate Brut Anderson Valley, Iron Horse Russian Cuvee and Domain Carneros Blanc de Noir (all from California); Pierre Sparr Cremant d’Alsace Brut Reserve (France); Segura Viudas Reserva (Spain); Ruffino Prosecco (Italy); and Gruet Blanc de Noirs (New Mexico).

White Wine:

Kistler Sonoma Mountain Chardonnay, Peter Michael Chardonnay, Chateau Montelena Chardonnay, Hess Select Monterey Chardonnay, Massican White Blend and Wente Riva Ranch Chardonnay ( all from California); Joseph Drouhin Puligny-Monrachet Premier Cru and Moillard Puligny-Montrachet Vieilles Vignes (France); Dr. Loosen Urziger Wurzgarten Mosel Riesling and S.A. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese (Germany) Martin Codax Albarino and Ossian Vinedo Ecologico Verdejo (Spain); Bastianich Vespa Bianco and Anselmi San Vincenzo (Italy).

Red Wine:
Chateau Montelena Cabernet, Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello Cabernet, Heitz Martha’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Saddleback Cabernet Sauvignon, Groth Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Merryvale Profile, Joseph Phelps Insignia, Dominus and Harlan Estate (all from California); Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon (Washington); Chateau La Dominique;, Chateau Lynch Bages, Chateau Brainaire Ducru, Chateau Cos d’Estournel, Chateau Pontet Canet, Chateau Leoville Las Cases and Chateau Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape (all from France); Domaine Serene Evanstad Reserve Pinot Noir (Oregon); Altesino Montosoli Brunello di Montalcino and Ornellaia (from Italy).

Here’s wishing you the merriest of Holiday Seasons and a prosperous New Year!

John Brown is also a novelist. His latest book is “Augie’s World” which is a sequel to his debut novel, Augie’s War. You can find out more about his novels at wordsbyjohnbrown.com.